Tranquebar- the land of singing waves

Dansborg Fort in Tranquebar
Image courtesy: ©Charukesi Ramadurai

There are many ways to enjoy the monsoon season. My favourite is to sit on an armchair on an open verandah with a cup of masala chai, listening to the pitter patter of raindrops falling on the roof. And if you add to it the music of giant sea waves crashing against rocks on the shore, then I consider that experience unmatched.

That perfectly describes my weekend not long ago in Tranquebar, on the southern Coromandel coast of India. I was staying in a spacious room on the upper level of The Bungalow on the Beach, a boutique heritage property managed by Neemrana Hotels.

Tranquebar is one of the rare European settlements in India that does not owe its existence to the British or the Portuguese. It was established by Danish explorers in the early 17th century as a trading port after a treaty with local ruler Raghunatha Nayak. The Danes traded and ruled from here till 1845, when the British took charge.

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The town has a quiet setting
The town has a quiet setting
Image courtesy: ©Charukesi Ramadurai

Today, it is a quiet and charming village, with only a few local attractions- perfect for those who seek a break from the stress of everyday life and work. The highlight here is the sprawling Dansborg Fort right on the shore, which used to be the hub of all commercial and administrative activity under the Danes. This fort was one of the first things built by the European traders when they found their way to Tranquebar.

The Dansborg fort was visible from my cozy perch on the hotel verandah, as was the colourful Masilamani Nathar temple on the other side. This Shiva temple, believed to have been built in 1306 by Kulasekara Pandiyan, predates almost every building in town. After it was damaged in the tsunami of 2004, the façade of this temple (originally built in classic Tamil architecture style), was painted in bright colours, as part of the repair process.

The town gate
The town gate
Image courtesy: ©Charukesi Ramadurai

When the rain let up, I headed out for an exploratory walk of Tranquebar, starting at the very entrance to the town. This is marked by the imposing Landporten (town gate) arch that greets visitors to this town, and has an etching of the royal Danish insignia on top. On the narrow lanes of the town, with grand names like King’s Street and Goldsmith Street, there are also several colonial era churches, schools and even a building that housed India’s first printing press.

The 2004 tsunami that ravaged this town, claiming the lives of over 800 residents, is still fresh in the minds of its people. On Queen’s Street in the heart of town, there is even a museum dedicated to the tsunami, displaying images and videos of its aftermath. As I walked around the tiny rooms, taking in the terrible scenes, I could only marvel at how the town has bounced back in just over a decade.

The only sign that the locals now fear the sea is visible on the boats lined up on the beach. Large images of benevolent gods who will protect fishermen from the wrath of nature are painted on both sides of these boats. Other than that, everyone was warm and welcoming, the beach filled with families, young couples and frolicking children in the evenings.

Thick canopies in the mangroves of Pichavaram
Thick canopies in the mangroves of Pichavaram
Image courtesy: ©Charukesi Ramadurai

After a couple of restful days in Tranquebar, we drove on to Pichavaram, for a look at the second largest mangroves system in India after the Sunderbans. A rowboat was hired for a quick tour of the mangroves. Spread over 3000 acres, Pichavaram has a complex labyrinth of 4400 narrow canals eventually merging into the Bay of Bengal.

Along the way, our boatman pointed out local birdlife- 200 species have been identified here- and a narrative about the stunning ecosystem of these waters. The boat ride took us through some stretches where the trees have formed thick canopies, which means there is little sunlight reaching the water, and we had to duck our heads to prevent getting hit.

Sitting back and enjoying this experience is a unique feeling in itself.

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