Most people bypass Indore en route to the historical sites and national parks of Madhya Pradesh. But a culinary journey through the city’s labyrinthine lanes is a great guide to central India’s mouth-watering and really cheap fast food, making Indore a worthy pit stop!
Words: FRIYAN DRIVER
Photographs: HASHIM BADANI
- VIJAY CHAAT HOUSE
The shikanji at this family-run joint has been a hit with locals since the last four decades. Don’t expect the lemony, masala-infused drink found in North India, though. This one is a velvety concoction of milk, shrikhand, dry fruits and rabdi – worth the elbowing you’ll have to endure to place an order. Don’t forget to also sample the local specialty here, kopra pattice – a deep-fried snack of potatoes, dry coconut, dry fruit and watermelon seeds. Pop two doors down into their sweet shop bursting with goodies for you to take home… that is, if you manage to not eat it all!
- HIRA LASSI
Started 60 years ago as a handcart outside Krishna Talkies, this place used to serve the chilled drink to film-lovers after a matinee show. Today, it stands tall as one of Indore’s most famous shops at which to get your fix of lassi so rich, it’s more like liquid shrikhand with a dollop of malai and rabdi. Another must-try here is the falooda – don’t let the fluorescent yellow colour put you off. It has layers of nostalgia in the form of of old-school strawberry and vanilla ice cream, vermicelli and a garnish of kesar and pista.